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Hvad målte i så camber vinklen til?
Var den ens på begge hjul efter i havde justeret?
Det er jo lidt noget fusk at bruge camber justeringen til at opnå mere caster (men jeg forstår godt hvad i forsøger at opnå). Første prioritet må være at få styr på camber vinklen, og derefter justere toe in.
HVIS det er nødvendigt med mere caster vinkel så gør du dette før alt det ovenstående, og du gør det ved at flytte det nederste forakselrør frem vha. castershims som kan købes til formålet.
Check også lige at du har ens dæktryk i fordækkene, og at de ikke er slidt skæv af at have kørt med forkert indstilling tidligere.

Hvis du stadig synes den er meget sidevindsfølsom efter ovenstående omgang, så check styrehus justeringen og generelt slør i styre OG bærekugler, samt overvej en kraftigere model krængningsstabilisator.

hm det har jeg aldrig tænkt over !!! radialdæk / diogonaldæk

Positive caster improves straight line tracking because the caster line (the line drawn through the steering pivot when viewed from the side) intersects the ground ahead of the contact patch of the tire. Just like a shopping cart caster, the wheel is forced behind the pivot allowing the vehicle to track in a straight line.

If this is the case, then why did most cars have negative caster specs prior to 1975 ? There are a couple of reasons for this. In those days, people were looking for cars that steered as light as a feather, and cars back then were not equipped with radial tires. Non-radial tires had a tendency to distort at highway speed so that the contact patch moved back past the centerline of the tire (Picture a cartoon car speeding along, the tires are generally drawn as egg-shaped). The contact patch generally moves behind the caster line causing, in effect, a positive caster. This is why, when you put radial tires on this type of car, the car wanders from side to side and no longer tracks straight. To correct this condition, re-adjust the caster to positive and the car should steer like a new car.

Dennis